Baked Pasta with Ragu and Gorgonzola Sauce
(featured in The Oregonian, October 26, 2003)
Mary Davis’ ragu is rich, hearty and complex, and it’s worth the extra time it takes to prepare. She likes to use a combination of meats, especially lamb, because she savors the way the meat suits the Pinot noir that is used in the sauce and enjoyed with the meal. What makes this dish such a winner is its versatility. The meat-from-the-bone can be flaked off and used in the sauce or enjoyed alongside as its own course. The Gorgonzola-infused pasta can be topped with the ragu before its final baking or can be presented at the table in its crusty splendor and topped with the ragu according to each diner’s preference.
Serves 8 to 10
Ragu sauce
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 lamb shanks, about 1 pound each (or a combination of lamb shank and beef on the bone, such as short ribs or steak)
1 1/2 cups finely diced sweet onions
2 meaty smoked bacon slices, finely diced (see Note)
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup finely chopped garlic, about 8 large cloves garlic
1 1/2 cups red wine with low tannins (see Note)
1/2 pound cooked and crumbled ground pork sausage
1/2 pound cooked and crumbled ground lamb
3 cans (14 /2 ounces each) canned crushed tomatoes (see Note)
Gorgonzola sauce
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 celery stalks, finely minced
2 cups finely diced sweet onion
Salt
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped garlic, about 3 large cloves
2 cups white wine (see Note)
3 cups milk, preferably whole and organic
4 to 5 ounces goat cheese, at room temperature
1/4 pound white Cheddar cheese, shredded, at room temperature
1/3 pound Gorgonzola cheese, at room temperature
1 1/2 pounds dry pasta, such as ziti, penne or small rigatoni
Up to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme and rosemary for garnishing
To make the ragu: Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a large, deep skillet or casserole that can later be covered. Add the shanks and brown on all sides. Add the bacon, onion and salt. Turn the heat down to medium, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft. Do not let the onions or bacon burn. Add the garlic, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is soft. Do not let burn. Add the wine to dissolve the caramelized juices stuck to the bottom of the pan and bring to a simmer. Add the pork sausage, ground lamb and tomatoes and turn the heat down to a simmer. Cover and cook for 2 hours or until the lamb is falling from the bone. (The recipe can be prepared one to three days in advance up to this point; cool. place in a covered container and refrigerate.) When ready to use, skim and remove chilled fat off the top of the sauce. Remove the lamb shank and remove the meat from the bone. The meat then can be flaked into the sauce or eaten as a side dish with the pasta. When ready to use, reheat and season with salt.
To make the Gorgonzola sauce: Heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat in a medium heavy saucepan. Add the celery and onion and sprinkle with salt and sauté until the onion begins to soften. Add the garlic and continue to sauté. After the onions become transparent and the liquid has nearly evaporated, add the white wine and continue to stir until any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan are released. Simmer for 10 minutes, then set aside to slightly cool. Transfer the onion mixture to a processor or blender and process until finely chopped.
Meanwhile, in the saucepan used to sauté the onions, add the milk and slowly heat over medium-low until the milk is hot but not boiling. Carefully stir in the chopped onion mixture. Add the goat, Cheddar and Gorgonzola chesses and whisk continuously, over very low heat, until the cheeses melt. Season to taste with salt.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta for 6 minutes or until you test one piece and find a raw line in the wall of the pasta. Drain the pasta and transfer to a bowl. Toss with the sauce and transfer into a 13-by-9-by 2-inch non-reactive baking dish. (If too full, use an additional 8-by-8-inch baking dish.) Pat the pasta to compress and be sure the pasta is covered in sauce. Spread the top of the pasta with a thick layer of the ragu. Bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Sprinkle with fresh herbs, slice into desired pieces and serve. (Alternatively, baked the pasta in the Gongonzola Sauce, serve on individual plates and spoon the Ragu over the pasta.)
Notes: An excellent smoky bacon, available in many delicatessens and deli-style supermarket meat departments, is Nueske’s applewood smoked bacon.
Davis recommends using one of the following Oregon Pinot Noir that are low in tannin with a ripe, clean fruit. They are $15 or under:
Broadley Vineyards, 2001 or 2002 Willamette Valley
Ransom Spirits, Jigsaw Pinot Noir, 2001
Beaux Freres, Les Cousins Pinot Noir, 2001
(Do not use wine that denotes new oak, oaky flavor or lots of spice. Look for adjectives such as crisp, light and stainless steel fermented.)
Davis recommends Muir Glen organic fire-roasted crushed tomatoes.
Davis recommends for the white wine: Argyle, American White Table wine (a 1.5 liter magnum is about $12)
From Mary Davis, Beaux Freres Winery
This recipe is recommended for the intermediate cook.