Campagne’s Sweet Onion and Parmesan Gratin topped with a salad of watercress, arugula and verjus
(featured in The Oregonian, June 22, 2003)
Campagne’s Sweet Onion and Parmesan Gratin topped with a salad of watercress, arugula and verjus is one of the Gordon’s specialties of the house. His inspiration for this dish came from one of his meals in Paris at Alain Passard’s renowned L’Arpège on the rue de Varenne. The creamy gratin with its spark of crispy greens is sophisticated yet homey and down to earth. Served as an hors d’oeuvre, it sets the tone for the exquisite meal that is yet to come. Like many fine recipes, the ingredients are simple, but it is the way in which Gordon coaxes the best from each ingredient that lifts it from the ordinary to the sublime.
Campagne is located in the courtyard of Inn at the Market; Pike Place Market, 86 Pine Street, Seattle, WA; 206-728-2800; www.campagnerestaurant.com.
Serves 4
2 large Walla Walla or other sweet onions
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
Mornay Sauce
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups hot milk
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 1/2 ounces Fontina cheese, grated
4 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated
1 tablespoon crème fraiche
Salad
2 tablespoons verjus (see Note)
6 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 tablespoon diced shallots
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 bunch arugula, leaves only
2 bunches watercress, leaves only
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon thinly sliced-on-the-bias green onion (green part only)
4 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, divided
Freshly ground black pepper
To prepare the onions: Peel and thinly cut the onions into 1/8-inch horizontal slices. In a wide, heavy-bottom pan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the onions and gently cook for 2 hours without developing any color. Use a wooden spoon to gently stir when needed. Drain the onions in a sieve and set aside. Reserve the butter for other uses.
To prepare the Mornay sauce: In a 1-quart saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring, for 10 to 20 seconds. Whisk in the milk, add the nutmeg, and keep stirring until the mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. (If any foam rises, skim it off.) Over low heat, add the mustard, then gradually whisk in the Fontina, followed by the Parmesan and crème fraiche. Make sure each addition is well incorporated before adding the next. Makes about 1 3/4 cup (any leftover sauce can be used to serve with eggs, fish, shellfish, vegetables or chicken).
To prepare the salad: In a salad dressing shaker, combine the verjus, grapeseed oil and shallots and shake until blended. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.
In a bowl, toss together the arugula, watercress, parsley and green onions.
To assemble: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Divide the cooked onions between 4 gratin dishes that are a minimum of 5 inches in diameter. Spread the onions in an even layer. Top each layer with 2 to 3 tablespoons of Mornay sauce; then sprinkle each with 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese and a grinding of freshly ground pepper. Bake until the Parmesan is just melted, about 7 minutes.
Meanwhile, toss the greens with just enough dressing to coat them evenly.
To serve: Remove the gratin from the oven and place on a linen or cotton napkin-lined plate. Divide the tossed greens between the 4 gratin dishes by mounding them in the center of each dish and serve.
Note: Verjus is a non-alcoholic juice made from unripe fruit, primarily grapes. It is used in sauces, dressings and mustards to heighten flavor, much as lemon juice or vinegar. In Portland, verjus is available at specialty grocery shops such as Whole Foods and Pastaworks. One brand is Abacela Verjus; a 750 ml. bottle cost about $9.
Adapted from chef Daisley Gordon, Campagne
This recipe is recommended for the intermediate cook.