Seco de Res
(featured in The Oregonian, November 16, 2003)
Beginning after Thanksgiving, 2003, Andina's Sunday brunch will become a family-style Sunday supper where, along with chef Villaran's inspired dishes, Doris Platt's stews, known as secos, will be offered.
"Guests at a poor or wealthy table would consider themselves honored to be served "seco," writes Platt at the top of his mother's recipe.
He goes on to explain that "seco" in Spanish means "dry" and it applies to this dish probably because of the way it is cooked over low heat until the liquid has reduce to a thick succulent sauce. Andina is located at 1314 NW Glisan; (503) 228-9535; www.andinarestaurant.com
Serves 4
1 1/2 tablespoons virgin olive oil
6 peeled garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 medium red onion, chopped
1 bunch cilantro, stems below the leaves discarded
1/2 cup water
Salt and pepper
2 pounds boneless shoulder, leg of lamb or stew beef, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 cup or more dark beer
Arroz al Ajo (rice) (recipe below)
Frejoles Criollos (beans) (recipe below)
Aji (hot pepper sauce) (recipe below)
In a large Dutch oven or a casserole, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic, sprinkle with cumin and sauté until light golden. Add the onion, reduce the heat to low and sauté until the onion is translucent.
Meanwhile, in a mini-processor or blender (or a mortar and pestle), combine the cilantro leaves and water until the leaves are finely chopped or pureed. Transfer to the Dutch oven and simmer for 2 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the meat, then the beer to cover (or add more beer or water if necessary. Cover and cook at a low simmer for about 1 1/2 hours or until the meat is fork-tender. If time permits, make a day ahead, cover and refrigerate. Reheat to serve. Serve with Arroz al Ajo (rice), Frejoles Criollos (beans) and Aji (hot pepper sauce).
Arroz al Ajo
1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons virgin olive oil
3 peeled garlic cloves, crushed
2 cups water
1/2 rounded teaspoon salt
1 cup long-grain rice
In a saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat, add the garlic and sauté until just golden. Add the water and salt (the water should be salty to the taste) and bring to a boil. Stir in the rice, cover, reduce the heat to low and cook for 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside.
Frejoles Criollos
1 cup navy beans, soaked overnight in water and drained
1/2 bay leaf
Hot water
1 1/2 tablespoons virgin olive oil
3 peeled garlic cloves, crushed
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 medium red onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon tomato sauce
3/4 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
3/4 teaspoon finely chopped cilantro leaves
Salt and pepper
In a saucepan, combine the soaked beans, bay leaf and enough hot water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over medium heat, turn the heat down and simmer until the beans are tender (the time will depend on the age of the beans).
In another saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat, add the garlic, sprinkle with cumin and sauté until light golden. Add the onion, reduce the heat to low and sauté until the onion is translucent. Add the tomato sauce, parsley and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper and continue to simmer, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes or until slightly reduced. Add the sauce to the beans, stir well and simmer for 10 minutes to let the flavors blend.
Aji
6 to 8 hot peppers, such as red or green jalapeño, chopped with seeds (see Note)
4 to 6 peeled garlic cloves
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon salt
In a blender, combine the peppers, garlic, water and salt. Blend together until pureed and transfer to a small bowl. Makes about 2/3 cup.
Note: Use care when handling hot peppers; the oils can cause a burning sensation on your skin.
Adapted from Doris Rodriguez Platt, Andina Restaurant
This recipe is recommended for the intermediate cook.