Vacation Snacks for the Back of a Motorcycle
(featured in The Oregonian, July 27, 2003)
With an on-the-road assignment in mind, it was time to update our motorcycle's stash of snacks. So, what better source than three Portland chefs who know the thrill of the outdoors and how to pack long lasting flavor in tight places. First, there's Greg Higgins, owner and chef of Higgins Restaurant, who's been racing and cycling since he was a kid. These days, he also likes to tour along with his wife on their bikes through the scenic Yamhill countryside and its wineries, and his Spicy Cheddar Crackers with Tomato Jalepeño Jam makes the journey even better.
Next, there's Vitaly Paley, owner and chef of Paley's Place. He's been cycling for about 3 years. "Sort of a mid-life crisis. It was either a Porsche or this—I made the right choice!" he says as he swings off his bike and grabs a squeeze bottle filled with a pretty purple liquid.
"I like to crush berries with ice and ginseng extract, then add it to drinking water for extra flavor and an energy boost," he adds. "Dried fruit like figs and cranberries mixed with hazelnuts works well too. And on long rides, I plan a trip around some good lunch spots like the Helvetia Tavern and stop for a ham and cheese with light beer, for that protein and carbo boost. That's my story."
And, finally, the sweeter side of life: Wildwood Restaurant's Gretchen Glatte's Chocolate Chip and Currant Molasses Cookies. Glatte, a pastry chef and surfing fanatic knows nothing's better on her weekly, summer Monday morning drives to the coast, with her long board on board, than a dozen of her mom's molasses cookies that she's doctored with bittersweet chocolate chips and currants. They're sweet, they're chewy and full of zip thanks to spices and a good dash of pepper.
Greg's Spicy Cheddar Crackers with Tomato Jalepeño Jam
Makes about 4 dozen crackers and 2 cups jam
Crackers
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon cream of tarter
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon dried chipotle chile powder
6 ounces (about 1 1/2 cups) grated Cheddar cheese
3/4 cup water
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1/4 cup softened butter
1/4 cup melted butter for finishing
Jam
2 pounds Roma tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 pound (2 cups) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Zest and juice of 3 lemons
2 to 3 jalapeño peppers, cored, seeded and thinly sliced (see Note)
To make the crackers: In a mixer or food processor, combine the dry ingredients. Add the cheese, water, maple syrup and softened butter. Mix until well combined, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board and kneed until smooth, about 4 minutes. Refrigerate the dough for at least 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Divide the dough in four pieces. Roll each piece into a sheet 1/4 inch thick. Fold into thirds and roll again to 1/8-inch thickness. Transfer the dough to a parchment-lined baking sheet and cut into triangles or squares 1 1/2-inch-by-1 1/2-inch with a pizza cutter or sharp knife. Sprinkle with more kosher salt and bake until golden brown, about 7 minutes. Remove from the oven, cool for 5 to 7 minutes, then return to the oven to crisp again, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and brush with melted butter. Cool and store in an airtight container until needed.
To make the jam: In a non-reactive saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the tomatoes, sugar, salt, lemon zest and lemon juice. Bring to a simmer. Stir frequently and continue to cook until the mixture thickens, 30 to 45 minutes. Push through a sieve to remove seeds and skins and return the mixture to the saucepan. Add the jalapeños and cook 5 minutes more. Transfer into clean jam jars or containers and allow to cool. Store in the refrigerator until needed.
Note: If you're sensitive to chiles, wear gloves when handling them; the oils can cause a burning sensation on your skin.
From chef Greg Higgins, Higgins Restaurant
Gretchen's Chocolate Chip and Currant Molasses Cookies
Makes about 4 dozen cookies
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 cup firmly packed light or dark brown sugar
1 egg
1/4 cup light or dark molasses
2 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 cup semi or bittersweet chocolate chips
1 cup dried currants
Granulated sugar for rolling
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Great two baking sheets or line with parchment paper.
In an electric mixer, cream the butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg and molasses and beat until blended. Sift together the dry ingredients and add to the butter mixture, mixing on low speed until combined. Scrape the mixer bowl for even blending. Mix in the chocolate chips and currants until well dispersed throughout the dough. Roll the dough in palm of hand to form 1 1/2- to 2-inch round balls. Toss in the granulated sugar and place on an ungreased cookie sheet. Gently flatten each cookie with the bottom of a glass. Bake until the tops are firm when lightly touched, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool on a wire rack and store in an airtight container.
From pastry chef Gretchen Glatte, Wildwood Restaurant
Vitaly's Energy Drink
Based on a 16-ounce squeeze bottle
16 ounces (2 cups) purified water
1 small (.34 ounce) bottle ginseng extract, available at heath or nutrition stores
1 hand full seasonal berries (out of season, use frozen unsweetened berry puree; see Note)
Assemble all ingredients in a blender. Puree until smooth and strain if necessary.
Note: For quicker results, puree a couple of pints of berries ahead. Keep it in the refrigerator and add 3 to 4 tablespoons per bottle when needed.
From chef Vitaly Paley, Paley's Place